Журнал пробиотиков и здоровья
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Review on the Recent Advancements in the Anti-Pollution Skincare Formulations: Focus on Immunomodulation and Microbial Preparations

Joanna Michalina Jurek, Victoria Neymann

An increasing emission of industrial pollution into environment is an emerging problem worldwide that also affects public health. Epidemiological evidence to date indicates that chronic and acute exposure to air pollutants, in particularly particulate matter, carbon and nitrogen oxides, as well as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons adversely affects various body functions, including accelerated photo aging and certain skin inflammatory conditions e.g. atopic, psoriasis, acne and even skin cancer. Although the exact mechanisms of environmental pollutants can influence skin condition, it is believed that chronic exposure to air pollutants can compromise skin barrier and by increasing production of free radicals, can lead to oxidative damage, thereby leading to progressive inflammation in the deep skin layers not limited to dermis. Owing the impact of the increased air pollution, this article aims to evaluate the existing evidence on the usefulness and applicability of bio-actives with the focus on naturally-derived bio-actives with capabilities to improve skin barrier, by mitigating negative effects associated with oxidative stress on skin immunity and microbiota composition. Briefly, many skincare strategies have been proposed, with majority of them being based on effective removal of pollutants from the skin surface and improving anti-oxidative skin defense systems through free radical neutralization. Furthermore, there is an increasing interest in new cosmetic formulations that not only to aim to improve antioxidant capabilities of skin, may also strengthen skin barrier integrity by promoting formation of the biofilm. That leads to the emerging trend of including microbial-based preparations along with the botanicals in the antipollution skin care products, such as topical creams and moisturizers. For that purpose, in particularly use of plants extracts and/or ferments made from plant sources and probiotic starter cultures have shown a promising antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity on the skin upon exposure to various air pollutions.